Spring lead us to
New Orleans this year, oddly, a place we had never been.
Let's just say it was the city of the unexpected. We traveled with the tween child and almost 88 year old mother (in-law) and we all tend to like the same types of things: history, food, museums, food, historic houses, food, good wine (ok, adults only on this one) and we are all happy walking or taking public transit.
I rented a house on
airbnb that was on the edge of the French quarter and Marginy and what appeared to be an easy walk to Bourbon street and Frenchman's *the* streets to visit. OK so great, it's all about location, right?
(more on that later) As expected, the house was perfect for our five night stay.
We ventured out into the Big Easy our first afternoon in search of FOOD! Mona Lisa's was the choice for a late lunch and it was basic Italian that filled us up. We wandered down Royal St into the heart of NOLA, got a feel for things and then headed home.
The next day we found our way to the
Louisiana State Museum. There are two (
unexpected) that flank the St James Cathedral, in the center of the FQ. Not realizing they were different, we chose
Cabildo first which had an exhibit on the history of Mardi Gras, expected, and one on Katrina, also somewhat expected. The Katrina story was told in the first person by those who stayed in the city through the storm. It was moving and horrifying and makes you hope that you NEVER experience what these people went through before, during and after the storm. (Some of the politics of the Katrina situation still exist today.)
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| Presbytere on the left, St James Cathedral, Cabildo on the right |
Another day we hit the
Presbytere' which provides the history of NOLA and surrounding areas from the beginning of well, record keeping. This is the museum for history junkies and we suggest you start your visit here if you are a museum/history hound. We also visited the
1850 House, one of the few original historic houses in NOLA you can actually visit. Most you just view from outside -
unexpected! :(
Day two we started later with brunch at the
Court of Two Sisters. This place is a little deceiving from the outside. It's been around for a long time and has a huge interior court yard with tables. Brunch was nice and had all the usual items and a few NOLA specialties. And of course there is live jazz being played all the time :)
Then we got on the
St Charles Streetcar at the edge of the business district, rode it through the garden district, which is almost the polar opposite of the FQ. Big houses, lush gardens, all beautifully up kept. It takes you past Tulane and Loyola which are right next to each other (
unexpected). You can get off at Magazine Street for shopping etc.
The street car is a great way to see the other parts of the city and
(unexpected) it's only $1.25!! Or $3.00 for an all day pass.
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| Pretty much always a line |
We followed up the street car excursion with cafe au lait and beignets at
Cafe du Monde,
a must in NOLA. It is chaotic and busy and open 24/7 and you seat yourself. Somewhat
unexpected, they only serve coffee, hot chocolate, water and beignets. The wait staff work 8 hour shifts and they have to pay for what you order before you get it, then you pay them. It is an assembly line process in the kitchen trays, plates, beignets, sugar, coffee and then check out with a cashier. The kitchen is eerily quiet! We asked about how much powdered sugar they go through in a day and the waitress said they put two 50 lb bags into the hopper each hour, on average. Do the math:
2 x 50 x 24 = 2400 lbs/day!
Tip: if you don't care about visiting the original location, find them in the Outlet Connection mall on the Riverwalk which is smaller, but cleaner and didn't have a wait!
Since we traveled with the tween we also visited the
Audubon Insectarium and
Aquarium. Both are a little pricey but if you have kids, it's a good place to take them so they feel like it wasn't all about the adults. There is also a
steamboat ride that leaves from the waterfront, just behind Cafe du Monde.
If you want a really outstanding meal make a reservation at
The Pelican Club. It will not disappoint you. They only serve dinner and are located at 312 Exchange Pl, which is a small pedestrian street located off of Bienville St. The menu is what they call "Funky Creole" but it was so much more than that. Fish, rabbit, lamb, duck, and of course beef, chicken and pork entrees. We ate for two hours and enjoyed every morsel. I savored the Louisiana Cioppino in it's own pot!
OK, so I haven't mentioned the biggest
unexpected. I thought we had a a house in the best "location," close to all that we wanted to see and do. You hear about what fun this city is, how Bourbon Street is THE place to visit, the music is great, there's all the history and culture. But the
big unexpected is Bourbon Street is 13 blocks of seedy bars, over 21 clubs and strip joints. Maybe it's great at night if you are into that scene but during the day it is depressing. Bars open 24/7 means drunks 24/7 on every corner and staggering down the streets. The child, who has been on 4 continents and seen more than the average kid, was very uncomfortable the first day when we trekked down the street for a block, until we grasped its reality.
In stark contrast to the Bourbon Street and all it represents, another
unexpected was the visit to the first convent and girls educational institution in America! The
Old Ursuline Convent, part of the Archdiocese of New Orleans, is the oldest building in the Mississippi River Valley and has a very long and interesting history.
Given this city has a large volume of tourists/conventions, lots of
higher education institutions and NFL team and good weather year-round, it was
unexpected that a large majority of
people here are poor. It is apparent in the homeless you see on the streets and in the parks. Houses in the FQ which you expected to be "just so" where in disrepair. Crime is such an issue that everyone has bars on the windows and many display signs that say "We love NOLA PD, we just don't have enough. Walk in groups!" ?!!?
The good
unexpected was finding a block or two that would be shut down to traffic to allow for street performers. We heard some really talented people and groups on Royal St outside
Rouses Market and in front of
St. James Cathedral. People stand or cop a seat on the curb and listen. Tips are always accepted and some sell CDs.
So for as much recovery as this city has made since Katrina, it has a long way to go. We enjoyed our visit and there was certainly enough to keep us busy and interested for six days but we also felt like there is a misconception of the city and what it offers visitors. It has amazing potential. The people are warm, friendly and proud of their traditions.
And yes, the food is, as
expected, awesome!
(Make sure you seek it out. There's just as much bad as there is good.)
