Paris in the Time of Covid

 We've been to the City of Lights dozens of times. My spouse grew up there. Never in all that time have I ever seen the city so empty. We visited at the end of August into the first week of September and it was devoid of people. 

Let's start with a some lesser traversed spots in Paris. We strolled through the Marais to the Place des Vosges on a Tuesday morning. Usually this place is teeming with people, kids playing at any time of the day. On this day I counted only 6 people. 

Place des Vosges - mid morning

Hotel de Sully - mid morning

Another day after lunch we wandered down Rue Rivoli and through the side entrance to the Louvre. This is always tourist central, jammed with people waiting to get in, people coming out, sitting by the fountains, taking selfies with the pyramids.  Here's what we saw:

After the end of summer holidays in France, typically August 31, people return to the city but even then there are always tourists from other countries. It was rare that we heard anything besides French spoken and maybe the occasional English.  On September 2 we strolled from our apartment near Gare de Lyon across the canal St Martin and then to the Isle St. Louis to Notre Dame. 

This was about noon and it was barren. A few people wandering down the side street next to Notre Dame looking at the progress of the restoration and viewing the outdoor exhibits but never have I seen the square in front of the cathedral completely empty. 

At the time we left you had to be vaccinated to even get on the plane but we are so we went. The French government had also recently required a "Pass Sanitaire" for you to do just about anything except grocery shop and go to church. We applied before we left but never got our passes. We were able to get 3 day temporary passes after a negative Covid test at just about any pharmacy and those allowed us to eat out and visit the Hotel de la Marine. As we were heading home they announced France was considering a restriction to only essential travel again. 

Ultimately we are glad we went to see my spouse's 94 year old mother, who is just fine and had no problem keeping up with our 10-12,000 steps every day!

Place de la Concorde

Jardin Luxembourg

Palais Royale

Paris Off the Beaten Path

We're regulars in Paris. Strike that, we're locals.

I guess I should start by saying we have a place there and the spouse spent a good part of his childhood there, so we go often. With that in mind I offer you some things to do and see when you've done all the touristy stuff. [Louvre, Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, etc.]

Roman Colosseum

Roman statue (reproduction)

Les Arenes De Luteces - Did you know there was a Roman Colosseum in the middle of the 5th Arr? Well there is and it's kinda cool. And it's free! Good place to take lunch and just hang out.

Jardin des Plantes - This park has tons to do and see and it's also home to the oldest zoo in Europe [if you don't count any royal menageries] Beautiful gardens, the zoological museum and Natural History Museum on the same grounds. Gardens are free. There are fees for the zoo and museums. But save your ticket and you can get a reduced entrance fee for the other attractions the next day. 5th Arr - close to Gare d'Austerlitz.

Eglise Saint-Eustache - This Gothic style church was started in 1532 and completed 100 years later, at the entrance of Les Halles ancient market. The adjacent area is undergoing a 'face lift' currently. Go for the free organ concerts on Sunday night @ 5:00pm. It supposedly has the biggest organ in France. 1st Arr. Easy walk from the Louvre.

[HINT: Yeah, it's free but be nice and drop a Euro in the collection box!]

[HINT 2: Traveling with kids 7-12? Let them visit the awesome adjacent playground that doesn't allow parents! Just beware it has limited and random hours.]

Funerary Art - Saint-Sulpice

Eglise Saint-Sulpice - The original prime meridian line goes right through the middle of this church, which is Gothic but was built over an existing 13th century Romanesque church. [It was made slightly famous by The DaVinci Code] But visit for the art! 6th Arr.


Musee Picasso - Probably better known that some of the sites on this list, it was recently renovated and just reopened! It has 5,000 works of his art on display and thousands more in the archives. [The new website leaves a lot to be desired though!] Closed Mondays. 3rd Arr.

Promenade Plantee - An old railway line in the 12th Arr that has be turned into a 4.5km elevated walkway. I'm partial to this because it's really close to our flat and it's a pretty walk any time of day.

Promenade Plantee - Ave Daumesnil

Musee Carnavalet courtyard

And probably one of my favorite spots is Museum Carnavalet - Essentially the history museum of Paris which is in a Renaissance-era hotel in the Marais quarter - 3rd Arr. Cool building, beautiful grounds and great art in all mediums that spans the history of the city. The permanent exhibits are free and special exhibits have a nominal fee. Not every exhibit is open every day. Best to check before you go.

Last place to check out is our local daily market: Marche' Aligre in the 12th Arr.

Fromage!

Our favorite cheese shop - they have over 1,000 types of cheese and will educate you. Pick a wine first and they can help you pair it with a couple of (or dozen) cheeses.  Don't forget bread which is around the corner!

Inside covered market

The market has a covered part that has been in operation for hundreds of years and has all kinds of merchants: dairy, meat, veges, fruits, olives, fish, flours, bread, and multiples of each.

Outdoor market

 





 
The exterior market is HUGE. Depending on the day or time of day you might have to fight your way through but the visual and sensory overload is worth it. Colors are vibrant and it's all fresh!

Hopefully all of this will keep you busy for a few days...

J'aime Paris! Can you tell? :)