Paris Off the Beaten Path

We're regulars in Paris. Strike that, we're locals.

I guess I should start by saying we have a place there and the spouse spent a good part of his childhood there, so we go often. With that in mind I offer you some things to do and see when you've done all the touristy stuff. [Louvre, Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, etc.]

Roman Colosseum

Roman statue (reproduction)

Les Arenes De Luteces - Did you know there was a Roman Colosseum in the middle of the 5th Arr? Well there is and it's kinda cool. And it's free! Good place to take lunch and just hang out.

Jardin des Plantes - This park has tons to do and see and it's also home to the oldest zoo in Europe [if you don't count any royal menageries] Beautiful gardens, the zoological museum and Natural History Museum on the same grounds. Gardens are free. There are fees for the zoo and museums. But save your ticket and you can get a reduced entrance fee for the other attractions the next day. 5th Arr - close to Gare d'Austerlitz.

Eglise Saint-Eustache - This Gothic style church was started in 1532 and completed 100 years later, at the entrance of Les Halles ancient market. The adjacent area is undergoing a 'face lift' currently. Go for the free organ concerts on Sunday night @ 5:00pm. It supposedly has the biggest organ in France. 1st Arr. Easy walk from the Louvre.

[HINT: Yeah, it's free but be nice and drop a Euro in the collection box!]

[HINT 2: Traveling with kids 7-12? Let them visit the awesome adjacent playground that doesn't allow parents! Just beware it has limited and random hours.]

Funerary Art - Saint-Sulpice

Eglise Saint-Sulpice - The original prime meridian line goes right through the middle of this church, which is Gothic but was built over an existing 13th century Romanesque church. [It was made slightly famous by The DaVinci Code] But visit for the art! 6th Arr.


Musee Picasso - Probably better known that some of the sites on this list, it was recently renovated and just reopened! It has 5,000 works of his art on display and thousands more in the archives. [The new website leaves a lot to be desired though!] Closed Mondays. 3rd Arr.

Promenade Plantee - An old railway line in the 12th Arr that has be turned into a 4.5km elevated walkway. I'm partial to this because it's really close to our flat and it's a pretty walk any time of day.

Promenade Plantee - Ave Daumesnil

Musee Carnavalet courtyard

And probably one of my favorite spots is Museum Carnavalet - Essentially the history museum of Paris which is in a Renaissance-era hotel in the Marais quarter - 3rd Arr. Cool building, beautiful grounds and great art in all mediums that spans the history of the city. The permanent exhibits are free and special exhibits have a nominal fee. Not every exhibit is open every day. Best to check before you go.

Last place to check out is our local daily market: Marche' Aligre in the 12th Arr.

Fromage!

Our favorite cheese shop - they have over 1,000 types of cheese and will educate you. Pick a wine first and they can help you pair it with a couple of (or dozen) cheeses.  Don't forget bread which is around the corner!

Inside covered market

The market has a covered part that has been in operation for hundreds of years and has all kinds of merchants: dairy, meat, veges, fruits, olives, fish, flours, bread, and multiples of each.

Outdoor market

 





 
The exterior market is HUGE. Depending on the day or time of day you might have to fight your way through but the visual and sensory overload is worth it. Colors are vibrant and it's all fresh!

Hopefully all of this will keep you busy for a few days...

J'aime Paris! Can you tell? :)

Like Amsterdam But in Pastels

What kind of traveler are you?

• High end/Luxury
• Repeater
• Off the beaten path
• Adventure
• Camping oh wait, that's not vacation
• Eco
• Trendy

We are a combination of high end and off the beaten path. Hiking and adventure are great provided there is a 5 star hotel with a hot shower and comfy bed at the end of the day.  When the kid was little we were also 'repeaters' and went to the same island a several years in a row.

I should start by saying we were headed to Cancun for a week at an all-inclusive for my sister-in-laws 50th birthday. Two days before we left Hurricane Wilma (cat 5) wiped out the Yucatan and our hotel. Initially PO'd but then thankful we weren't already there with a toddler, I spent the next week on the NOAA hurricane website looking for an island that hadn't been hit in recent memory.

Punta, Willemstad, Curacao

Enter Curacao. It's like Amsterdam in pastels but with much better weather! Mid-80's year round and warm water. Basically it's a desert island made of years of coral build up. And it is generally out of hurricane territory, just 30 miles north of Venezuela. The capital city Willemstad is divided into two sections, Punta and Otrabanda. A shipping canal runs through the middle and frequently you will see what looks like moving buildings. They have an oil refinery that they lease to the Venezuelan government so this is not a 'third world' island. A huge pontoon bridge (The Queen Emma Bridge) allows you to walk between sides easily.

Until recently this island was largely unknown to tourists but they've been working on publicity to the masses so if you want to go, go soon before it becomes like the island next door - Aruba.

Secluded Beaches!

There's lots to do regardless of what type of traveler you are. If you like museums, check out the slave trade history at the Kura Hulanda Museum. [This is part of the Kura Hulanda complex which is a lovely hotel and resort - highly recommend both their properties!] Then there's one of the oldest synagogues in the Mikve Israel-Emanuel, which has one of the over 700 historical buildings in Willemstad. Did I mention the entire downtown of Willemstad, is a World Heritage UNESCO site? And if you like boats visit the Curacao Maritime Museum.


This is a great diving island. Our fav is GO WEST Diving at Playa Kalki in Westpunt. Try to dive Alice in Wonderland and/or the Mushroom Forest. There are lots of other sites too. Check them out on the Curacao website.

Other outdoorsy stuff to do/see:

Hato Caves

Ostrich Farm

• Cristoffel National Park
• Curacao Sea Aquarium - mostly outdoors and lots of touch tanks for kids
• Curacao Ostrich Farm - have lunch at their Zambezi restaurant serving what else? Ostrich! 
• Parke Tropikal - Curacao's zoo, currently under re-construction <sorry!>
• Hato Caves - Arawak Indian cave paintings, slave hideouts, bats!
• Shete Boka National Park - natural bridge, easy day hikes

Cristoffel Park

 OK now on to the FOOD! Because this island was part of the slave trade routes, there is a high West African influence on the food.  Fish is obviously a big part of the diet with Creole twists, but if you want Thai, Indonesian or Chinese you can find those too.

Most of the big hotels cater to American and European palates but I strongly encourage anyone interested in local cuisine to have lunch at Marshe Bieuw, the Old Market in Punta. Only open for lunch GO EARLY [like 11:45] to avoid a long wait. This is where locals eat. You'll probably have to share a plastic covered picnic table but it's worth it. There are several operations within the market, check out menus and pick one. Daily fare usually includes goat stew, fried fish, pork or beef, rice, salad, fried plantains and funchi! 
The Floating Market is another local spot to pick up fresh veges, fruits and fish brought in daily from Venezuela.

Another good place, opposite the lower entrance to the Kura Hulanda, is the Restaurant & Cafe De Gouveneur de Rouville in another historic building in Otrabanda. Good food, fresh fish and great views of the harbor and Punta side of the city.

So are you ready to pack your bag and go NOW?

Istanbul: You Just Gotta Go

If you asked me "What's the best trip you've been on, so far?" Unequivocally I'd say ISTANBUL. But first you have to like bustling cities and history and the concept of melting pots. Because that's what Istanbul is, a melting pot.  I like to describe it as NYC on super-charged steroids with 2700+ years of history.

So there's all the usual stuff you must see:

Blue Mosque

Hagia Sofia

Grand Bazaar

Topkapi Palace

But there is SO much more to take in, it's staggering.  This city has been the center of the Ottoman Empire, Roman Empire, Byzantine Empire and the point at which the Silk Road enters/exits Europe. It's got 37 'districts' over two continents. It's HUGE and twelve days didn't even scratch the surface.

The Golden Horn area is where most of the 'must visit' places are: Blue Mosque, Hagia Sofia, Topkapi Palace and the places made famous in Bond movies: Basilica Cistern, the Grand Bazaar and Maiden's Tower (out in the Bosporus). Be sure to get to the Beyoglu district, Taksim Square, Galata Tower and the Asian side - all are unique and have a lot to see, do and explore.

Getting around is super easy. Public transit is the way to go. Get a pass, load it up and it works on everything: bus, metro, tram, funicular, ferry, skyway and cable car. You can even take a ferry to the Prince's Islands for about $3.00US. A 90 minute trip into the Sea of Marmara to these 9 of islands that are vehicle-free, except for government/emergency vehicles. People who live there year round use bikes, donkeys or their feet to get around.

It is a shopper's paradise and a daunting one even for the most avid shopper. Get outside the Grand Bazaar and Spice Market and wander the streets, alleys and even second stories to find anything and everything. I think what amused me the most was when we stumbled upon the "merchants for merchants" district. Ever wonder where you buy a mannequin or those little size tags in the back of clothes? Well in Istanbul you go to this section of the city instead of Amazon.

I always thought of the Dutch as the ultimate merchants. They've got NOTHING on the Turks! The really cool thing about Turks is they are not pushy like Arabs (that's a whole other post). They woo you with tea, educate you, make you a friend for life and consequently a customer for life. Evidence below:

Yes, they showed up on my doorstep with a truck full of them!

Seriously, there is all sorts of shopping all over this city. Walk down back alleys to find amazing things. The Arcades off of Istiklal Avenue and beautiful and very cool.
[Reuter's did an interesting take on the city's heritage and gentrification in the Beyoglu district. You can read it here]

OK now I'll move on to the FOOD because that's totally awesome too. Breakfast is savory (not sweet like the US) and everyone buys these sesame street 'bagles' called simit which are yummy.

Then there are the doner kebab sandwiches which can be meat (lamb, beef) in fresh bread with a variety of veges.  Think Subway, just a whole lot better! Or you can go traditional kebab at a place like the Meat House, which is rated one of the best in the Old City/Sultanahmet district.

Or you can go to the dock and get your fish sandwich.  Yep, boat goes out, brings in fish, cooks it fresh, puts it into a roll with veges. Passes it to the guy on land who stuffs it in a wrapper and sells it to you. Doesn't get much fresher than that, does it?

And you must try at least one authentic Ottoman meal. Take your time to really enjoy it. Oh and they serve family style so you can share - Bonus! Lots of lamb, eggplant, bread, salads, veges and eggs, who knew? Turkish pizza is also interesting, but in a good way. Different and worth a try for a quick meal.

Need a place to stay? I highly recommend Elenaz Hotel. Ranked in the top 25 of hotels worldwide on Trip Advisor. Owners speak 4 languages and are totally awesome hosts. Breakfast is included and has a big variety of hot/cold options. They are in a prime location, walkable to everything and also right on the tram line, behind the train station and close to the ferry. Rooms are not huge but very functional and modern.

Did I mention Istanbul is economical? Turkish Air is always one of the least expensive airlines to Europe from the US. Hotels range from really cheap to fairly expensive. (We spend $2100 for 12 nights, including breakfast for 3 people) You can eat cheap, like really cheap. Public transit is amazingly on-time and inexpensive. Attractions are average for anywhere. Mosques are free!

So just go and if you have a kid or two or six, take them too. Turks LOVE kids and it is a family friendly place.

The Traveling Public

I've been traveling my entire life.  In fact, my first trip I was about 10 weeks old and we went to FL, not that I remember.  None the less, I've been doing this a LONG time. I feel naked when I'm waiting on a passport renewal. I live about 7 minutes from my airport and use it frequently. Like weekly. I'm there for drop off/pick up/fly in/fly out. We talk in airport codes at our house.  Typical travel conversation:

"Where's your connection? DEN or MSP"
"MSP but it's tight. Thankfully I can reroute through ATL if its late."
"OK, I watch on FlightTracker"

I have more than a clue about how it's all supposed to operate.

[Hint: if you don't know and want to find out check CNN's 24 Hours at ATL]

So I feel like I can say that generally I dislike the fact that everyone travels now and most are amateurs at it.  People don't pay attention and then they complain. Security is my favorite. 

Unless you were in a coma during 9/11 and it's aftermath, you know that security worldwide has changed. (Heathrow not withstanding, it's always been terrible there.) Seriously, I wish all airports had lines for "Seasoned Travelers."   

But for those of you who are not regulars a few tips for security lines:

1. You need a VALID picture ID! I really love those people who get to the TSA agent and hand them a ticket and social security card or credit card for ID.  Umm, really? That's the best you can do? Guess you missed the part about ID when you bought your ticket.
2. If you are between the ages 12 and 75 take off your shoes - I highly recommend slip-ons vs. laces, unless of course you enjoy or more likely are oblivious, to the back up you are creating while tying your shoes.
3. If you have a laptop, take it out of the bag and put it in a plastic bin - ALONE.
4. Take off your coat, hoodie, sweater, superhero cape or whatever. Put it on the xray belt.
5. Carry-ons? Hand bag? Back pack? All goes on the xray belt.
6. Empty your pockets. All of them. Everything. Yep, cell phone too.
7. Big belt buckle, big metal jewelery or hair clip? Take them off.
8. Everything off? Are you sure? 
9. Great! walk through wherever you are directed.
10. Clear? Fabulous! pick up your stuff off the belt and get the hell out of the way. FAST!

You'd think this wasn't rocket science but apparently it is for the large majority of the traveling public. (Otherwise I'd write about something else today) I think George Clooney's character nicely sums up how it should be done in this clip from Up in the Air. 

My other solution to this is if you don't travel at least once every six months you need to take a class on navigating the airport and proper etiquette before you are allowed through security. Maybe even before you get to the airport... just a thought.

Just go here before you attempt security on your own.