Thursday, November 6, 2014

Istanbul: You Just Gotta Go

If you asked me "What's the best trip you've been on, so far?" Unequivocally I'd say ISTANBUL. But first you have to like bustling cities and history and the concept of melting pots. Because that's what Istanbul is, a melting pot.  I like to describe it as NYC on super-charged steroids with 2700+ years of history.

So there's all the usual stuff you must see:
Blue Mosque
Hagia Sofia

Grand Bazaar










Topkapi Palace



But there is SO much more to take in, it's staggering.  This city has been the center of the Ottoman Empire, Roman Empire, Byzantine Empire and the point at which the Silk Road enters/exits Europe. It's got 37 'districts' over two continents. It's HUGE and twelve days didn't even scratch the surface.

The Golden Horn area is where most of the 'must visit' places are: Blue Mosque, Hagia Sofia, Topkapi Palace and the places made famous in Bond movies: Basilica Cistern, the Grand Bazaar and Maiden's Tower (out in the Bosporus). Be sure to get to the Beyoglu district, Taksim Square, Galata Tower and the Asian side - all are unique and have a lot to see, do and explore.

Getting around is super easy. Public transit is the way to go. Get a pass, load it up and it works on everything: bus, metro, tram, funicular, ferry, skyway and cable car. You can even take a ferry to the Prince's Islands for about $3.00US. A 90 minute trip into the Sea of Marmara to these 9 of islands that are vehicle-free, except for government/emergency vehicles. People who live there year round use bikes, donkeys or their feet to get around.

It is a shopper's paradise and a daunting one even for the most avid shopper. Get outside the Grand Bazaar and Spice Market and wander the streets, alleys and even second stories to find anything and everything. I think what amused me the most was when we stumbled upon the "merchants for merchants" district. Ever wonder where you buy a mannequin or those little size tags in the back of clothes? Well in Istanbul you go to this section of the city instead of Amazon.

I always thought of the Dutch as the ultimate merchants. They've got NOTHING on the Turks! The really cool thing about Turks is they are not pushy like Arabs (that's a whole other post). They woo you with tea, educate you, make you a friend for life and consequently a customer for life. Evidence below:

Yes, they showed up on my doorstep with a truck full of them!

Seriously, there is all sorts of shopping all over this city. Walk down back alleys to find amazing things. The Arcades off of Istiklal Avenue and beautiful and very cool.
[Reuter's did an interesting take on the city's heritage and gentrification in the Beyoglu district. You can read it here]

OK now I'll move on to the FOOD because that's totally awesome too. Breakfast is savory (not sweet like the US) and everyone buys these sesame street 'bagles' called simit which are yummy.

Then there are the doner kebab sandwiches which can be meat (lamb, beef) in fresh bread with a variety of veges.  Think Subway, just a whole lot better! Or you can go traditional kebab at a place like the Meat House, which is rated one of the best in the Old City/Sultanahmet district.

Or you can go to the dock and get your fish sandwich.  Yep, boat goes out, brings in fish, cooks it fresh, puts it into a roll with veges. Passes it to the guy on land who stuffs it in a wrapper and sells it to you. Doesn't get much fresher than that, does it?

And you must try at least one authentic Ottoman meal. Take your time to really enjoy it. Oh and they serve family style so you can share - Bonus! Lots of lamb, eggplant, bread, salads, veges and eggs, who knew? Turkish pizza is also interesting, but in a good way. Different and worth a try for a quick meal.

Need a place to stay? I highly recommend Elenaz Hotel. Ranked in the top 25 of hotels worldwide on Trip Advisor. Owners speak 4 languages and are totally awesome hosts. Breakfast is included and has a big variety of hot/cold options. They are in a prime location, walkable to everything and also right on the tram line, behind the train station and close to the ferry. Rooms are not huge but very functional and modern.

Did I mention Istanbul is economical? Turkish Air is always one of the least expensive airlines to Europe from the US. Hotels range from really cheap to fairly expensive. (We spend $2100 for 12 nights, including breakfast for 3 people) You can eat cheap, like really cheap. Public transit is amazingly on-time and inexpensive. Attractions are average for anywhere. Mosques are free!

So just go and if you have a kid or two or six, take them too. Turks LOVE kids and it is a family friendly place.

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